海底撈「火辣」上市引外媒圍觀,連用詞都充滿「火鍋」味!| 外媒說

最近,中國火鍋品牌海底撈「火辣」上市,開盤8分鐘市值破千億。這家火鍋的驚人表現引多家國外主流媒體關注。

BBC開篇用了「raising eyebrows」來表達對此事的驚嘆。

報導稱:

The hotpot chain Haidilao, which has outlets from the US to Japan, has been raising eyebrows for another reason this week.

海底撈,一家從美國到日本均設有分店的火鍋連鎖店,本周卻因為別的原因讓人驚訝。

海底撈是典型的四川火鍋,不論是味道還是企業本身。

海底撈官網截圖

天眼查截圖

而對於這點《紐約時報》研究得很深入:

Haidilao’s name originates from a Sichuanese mahjong term that connotes winning. While the chain offers a wide variety of broths, it is known mainly for its Sichuan-style spicy hot pot.

海底撈的名字來源於一個有獲勝含義的四川麻將術語。雖然連鎖店提供各種各樣的鍋底,但還是主要以四川風味的麻辣鍋著稱。

而這家火辣辣的餐飲企業,上市表現也很火辣。

《金融時報》就用了一個特別的詞——「hit a rolling boil」(滾煮到沸點)來形容其開局走勢。

Chinese restaurant group Haidilao Hotpot hit a rolling boil on its trading debut in Hong Kong on Wednesday.

中國餐飲集團海底撈火鍋周三在香港掛牌交易,開局如沸騰火鍋!

The company, which had priced shares at the top end of its target range at HK$17.80 ($2.28) each to raise $963m, jumped as much as 10.3 percent in early trading.

海底撈的發行價位於定價區間高端,發行價為每股17.80港元,共籌得9.63億美元。在周三的早盤中,海底撈股票一度上漲10.3%。

美國消費者新聞與商業頻道(CNBC)周三援引專家評論稱,「這毫無疑問是香港最貴的餐飲股之一」。

At a valuation of about 79 times its historical earnings, Haidilao is “certainly one of the most expensive restaurant stocks in Hong Kong,” Ronald Wan, group non-executive chairman at Partners Financial Group, told CNBC on Wednesday.

Partners Financial Group非執行董事長 Ronald Wan周三表示,海底撈的估值約為其歷史收益的79倍,「毫無疑問是香港最貴的餐飲股之一」。

外媒:火鍋在中國是怎樣一種存在

海底撈的上市,讓外媒下決心研究一把火鍋和這家火鍋企業,而報導的畫風是這樣的!

BBC報導稱,太逗了!那麼大的鍋就擱桌子的正中間:

Never heard of hotpot? Well,it’s a pretty common meal in China and across other parts of Asia.

從來沒聽說過火鍋?火鍋在中國和亞洲其他地方非常普遍。

Funnily enough, it involves a very big hot pot of broth, which is usually positioned or sunk into the middle of a table.

非常有趣的是,在桌子的正中間會放置或者嵌入一個裝有肉湯的大鍋。

外媒細數海底撈的「花式服務」

什麼?!這樣吃火鍋可還行?

在研究了海底撈火鍋經營後,外媒驚訝表示,原來海底撈靠的是服務!

BBC在報導中表示:

It has a reputation for keeping customers waiting for more than two hours for a table.

海底撈以能讓消費者等位兩小時而揚名。

如何做到的呢?報導中進一步分析稱:

Manicurists are employed to offer a complimentary nail service

餐廳雇有美甲師免費提供美甲服務

there are play areas for children

為兒童配備遊戲區

masseurs offer neck rubs

按摩師提供頸部按摩

some restaurants even have photo booths to print pictures while you wait

有些餐廳甚至有照片列印區

《金融時報》在報導中專門提到了跳著舞拉面條這個噱頭:

The restaurant sells spicy Sichuan-style hotpot and offers manicures to diners as they wait for their tables alongside other gimmicks such as dancing noodle chefs.

海底撈火鍋餐廳銷售麻辣的四川火鍋,為等位的食客提供美甲服務,此外還有一些諸如跳舞拉面等噱頭。

不僅有拉面舞,海底撈還給單身食客提供毛絨熊。

《金融時報》報導稱:

The country’s dominant chain has a new weapon to attract single diners: stuffed bears.

著名火鍋連鎖店動用了一個新武器來吸引單身食客:毛絨熊。

海底撈是否能在海外擴張時保持其獨特的品質?

CNBC的擔心是這些服務能否同時攬獲外國網友芳心:

Wan also questioned whether Haidilao would be able to sustain its unique qualities as it expands overseas, referring to the restaurant’s additional services such as free manicures and snacks for customers waiting in line.

Partners Financial Group非執行董事長懷疑,海底撈是否能夠在海外擴張時保持其獨特的品質,即餐廳的額外服務,如免費美甲和為排隊的顧客提供零食等。

顧客享受服務,也有錯?

多家媒體均認為打服務牌是海底撈得以成功的主要原因之一,《紐約時報》也這樣認為。但是,認真閱讀就會發現,相比而言,《紐約時報》的報導非常誇張、刻意。

《紐約時報》對海底撈的美甲服務做了大篇幅的報導。文章以一個中國女孩尚飛飛(音)的體驗為開頭:

Sometimes, Shang Feifei goes to a restaurant just for the manicures.

有時,尚飛飛去那家餐館只是為了美甲。

On a recent Wednesday night, Ms. Shang, 40, sat patiently at a downtown Beijing branch of Haidilao. A Haidilao employee buffed and painted her nails, free. The aroma from bubbling broth-filled pots lingered in the air.

前不久的一個周三晚上,40歲的尚飛飛耐心地坐在北京市中心的一家海底撈分店。海底撈的一名員工為她免費打磨指甲、塗上顏色。鍋中的肉湯冒著泡,香氣在空氣中飄蕩。

的確,這樣的畫面在海底撈門口可謂是司空見慣。但是《紐約時報》接著寫道:

Ms. Shang wasn’t planning to stay to eat after she got her pink, glittery nails done. For her, the food was secondary to the experience.

尚飛飛的美甲做完了,粉紅色的指甲閃閃發光,之後她並不打算繼續用餐。她這次來,食物是次要的。

「I find Haidilao’s special services so entertaining,」 said Ms. Shang, who comes to Haidilao every week to get her manicures.

「我覺得海底撈這些特殊服務都太好玩了,」尚飛飛說,她每周都來海底撈做美甲。

CD君想問,尚飛飛這樣的極端案例究竟有幾個?《紐約時報》真的做過調查麼?

而隨後,《紐約時報》採訪了一位餐飲同行:

「It was disgusting that people were waiting and having their nails clipped,」said Joel Silverstein, chief executive of the East West Hospitality Group.

「人們一邊等餐一邊修指甲太惡心了,」東西迎客集團的首席執行官喬伊·西爾弗斯坦說。

喬伊·西爾弗斯坦(Joel Silverstein

他補充說,

「…the thing I’ve learned about China is, Chinese people love over-the-top service as long as they don’t have to pay for it.」

「我對中國的了解是,中國人喜歡誇張的服務,只要是免費的。」

CD君想問,顧客去餐廳吃飯難道不是去享受服務的麼?如果你所需體驗的服務正好免費,哪個國家的消費者會拒絕呢?

相比海底撈服務方式的誇張,《紐約時報》這樣的報導方式未免更誇張。

食品醜聞

盡管《紐約時報》的有些觀點是偏頗之論,但其報導中指出的這點的確是海底撈的硬傷——食品醜聞。

這個硬傷,BBC在報導中也有提及:

It has suffered a couple of very high profile food scandals in China and in Singapore.

在中國和新加坡,海底撈曾深陷食品醜聞。

《紐約時報》詳細地介紹了整個事情的始末:

Last year, a viral video taken in two Beijing outlets by an undercover Chinese journalist showed rat-infested kitchens, dishwashers covered with grease and staff members cleaning sewers with a soup ladle. In June, the Chinese news media reported that a customer in one of the previous offending outlets found a fly in the dipping sesame sauce.

去年,一名中國調查記者在北京的兩家海底撈分店拍攝的熱播視頻顯示,廚房老鼠橫行,洗碗機覆蓋著油脂,工作人員用湯勺清洗下水道。今年6月,中國新聞媒體報導,在之前一家違規分店用餐的顧客在芝麻醬中發現了一只蒼蠅。

In both instances, Haidilao apologized and promised to overhaul food safety in all its restaurants.

在這兩起案例中,海底撈都表示道歉,並承諾在其所有分店中徹底整頓食品安全。

那麼,海底撈是怎麼整改的呢?

Now, customers can watch a live-stream video of the kitchen from a flat-screen television hung on the wall or through tablets on their tables. They are also welcome to personally observe the food being prepared.

現在,客戶可以通過掛在牆上的平板電視或桌上的平板電腦觀看廚房的實時視頻。餐廳也歡迎他們親自觀看食物的準備過程。

中國餐飲市場

海底撈的高開也引起了外媒對中國餐飲市場的關注:

《金融時報》介紹稱:

Rising incomes and an expanding middle class have propelled China’s restaurant market to the second-largest in the world, according to a recent report by industry body China Cuisine Association.

行業機構中國烹飪協會最近的一份報告稱,居民收入不斷提高和中產階層不斷擴大,已推動中國成為世界第二大餐飲市場。

China’s restaurant industry is forecast to grow about 10 percent annually over the next five years in terms of sales, according to Frost & Sullivan, a market research group. Hotpot is the most popular Chinese cuisine in China, with a 14 percent market share in 2017, it added.

根據市場研究集團弗若斯特沙利文咨詢公司的數據,預計未來五年中國餐飲業的銷售額將以每年約10%的速度增長。該公司補充稱,在中國,火鍋是人氣最高的中餐,2017年占有14%的市場份額。

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編輯:王瑜 陳智明

參考來源:FT、New York Times、BBC等

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